It might be most famous for the Robin Boyd-designed tower that proudly surveys more than 115ha of vines, but chef Dan Hawkins – along with owners Andrew Ryan and dad Gerry – wants the restaurant at Nagambie’s Mitchelton winery to be as much of a drawcard as those amazing views from up high.

And he’s cooking up a Goulburn Valley storm within the Scandi-handsome dining room that features a roaring open fire in winter and expansive vine-covered terrace in summer.

He’s backing up the local supplier farm-to-fork talk with dishes that include a brilliant Bald Rock pork cutlet swaddled in fennel seed crumb and served with excellent apple mustard, and a standout roast chicken with fat hunks of bacon and crunchy crostini with a few foraged pine mushrooms thrown in for good measure. Head-on, deboned Murray Cod served with decadent beurre blanc is at once delicate and rich, while smoked brisket with mushroom mustard is a hearty and heartening way to start.

Value-forward estate wines are there for the drinking, while a few other interesting Victorians round out the list.

With generous, dexterous cooking that celebrates the region without too much fuss – but with a whole lot of flavour – that’s a bit of a bargain to boot, Muse is making Mitchelton famous. Again.

Must eat dish: Bald rock pork cutlet