Snug on the ground floor of Brisbane’s historic Custom’s House, this 50-seater newcomer exudes an opulent, contemporary vibe in muted blues and browns, with golden chandeliers comprising strings of twinkling miniature kites.

Outdoors, under a slatted timber canopy and with river and Story Bridge views, is seating for a further 70. Start with a flute of Louis Roederer, an ideal match with ceviche of scallop, avocado, red grapes, pomegranate, ginger and kaffir. Smoked brisket steam buns are fluffy and scented with lemongrass, chilli and coconut, while oyster mushrooms, grown in the cellar, are tossed in shitake cream with stracchiatella and tarragon oil. European and Asian influences continue with pan-fried gnocchi with pine nuts, kale, ricotta and smoked raisins, and a whopping 1kg Darling Downs OP rib with a pot of good chimichurri.

A difficult decision presents for dessert – peanut butter parfait, chocolate, bruleed banana and candied peanuts, or lemon myrtle meringue, coconut shortcake, berries and grapefruit cream. The solution is to order both and share. The wine list is carefully crafted and the service enthusiastic without being intrusive.

Patina, named after the coppered dome of its late 19th century building, offers a modern addition to a treasured landmark.

Must-eat dish: Ceviche of scallop, avocado, red grapes, pomegranate, ginger and kaffir