Typical of finer restaurants in Japan, with lots of dark timber, large sake barrels, sunken tables and an open-kitchen where chefs greet diners with an enthusiastic “irasshaimase” (welcome), Sake is an authentic offering which, while big on its namesake, is also very much a foodie destination.

Light bites include the kingfish and tuna nori crisps while the beef tartare is creamy and rich with fried egg puree, pickled daikon and milk bread crisps – a generous starter. As is the the pan-seared gyoza, five crescent parcels densely packed with pork and prawn, are accompanied by piquant chilli ponzu sauce. Warm Kozaemon Junmai sake is soft and earthy, marrying well with Cape Grim short rib bo ssam which, although a Korean dish, fits with the teriyaki chicken and tempura snapper on the mains menu, given the long cultural connection between the two countries.

Boneless short ribs are slow cooked and given a Japanese twist with condiments of red miso and chilli and dashi-simmered garlic, all wrapped in a lettuce leaf. Another successful wrap is Glacier 51 (Patagonian) toothfish from the icy waters of Australia’s sub-Antarctic. The white, delicate fish is bound in a bamboo leaf and drizzled with miso butter.  

With sister restaurants in Sydney and Melbourne, Sake is a slick operation with an extensive beverage list that, along with sake, umeshu (plum liqueur) and whisky, takes in some of Australia’s best wines. Desserts are not a traditional strong point in Japanese cuisine, but the raspberry sorbet is a cleansing finale.

Must-eat dish: beef tartare