The Mayfair has the kind of swagger that gives a city a grown-up edge. Elegantly evoking NYC supper clubs of old, this restaurant and late-night lounge has a multitude of uses, and is proof that hotel bars can have character.

Whether it’s live jazz and a nightcap, a past-your-bedtime bite or date night under flattering lighting, both food and drink shine. Co-owner Joe Jones handles libations with care and flair, his killer cocktails including the bittersweet Fall Back, with whiskey, Applejack and bitters.

On the plate, the made-to-order crumpet heaped with crab, caviar and a dash of curry remains a rightful signature, but the gougère – puffy choux filled with comte custard – are supremely snackable, too. Mains move to Milawa coq au vin, and the humble bavette steak, charred, sliced and teamed with a textbook-good Bernaise.

With a post-10.30pm menu of oysters, steak tartare and an outrageously oozy burger thick with smoked gouda, staying up late is great.

Must-eat dish: Crab crumpet