It’s no straight-laced team behind the original and long-running Bodega, so when you see a menu of tapas, it’s not going to be a predictable run-through of Spanish staples. This is the crew behind Porteño and Bodega 1904; the hugely successful Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate who bring quirky 1950s cool, tattoos, wide smiles and impeccable service with creative and delicious food across Sydney.

The octopus and pig’s ear salad is something to love. The tender octopus comes as bite-sized curls and studs, the pig’s ear thinly sliced and crunchy like crackling, tossed with soft shredded cabbage and sour apple in a jalapeno dressing. It’s generous enough to add zest and crunch to the plate through the entire meal.

Bodega’s hot cross bun is a fruitless rendition of Easter’s stalwart morsel – filled with corned beef and smoked oyster mayo and kimchi. A corn tamale comes caramelised and slightly charred with an ornate avocado mousse and a roasted eggplant half that’s laden and rich with miso on a spoonful of fresh mole verde. It’s a soft, sweet and savoury dish that takes creativity to the heights of downright delicious. A lot of Bodega dishes border on the too sweet and playful, and something fresh and acidic like the pig’s ear salad is essential.

It’s not a traditional tapas restaurant, it’s barely Spanish, and weighs in on South America and Latin flavours while feeling more like a ’50s diner made edgy. But it’s a beautiful restaurant, balancing delicious and rockin’, and bringing good times to all.

Must-eat dish: Pork, octopus, cabbage & green apple salad with jalapeno dressing