The Point puts the pomp and ceremony back into fine dining, and that’s not a bad thing.

You’re in very capable hands here with sophisticated, first-class hospitality in a plush, generously spaced dining room where curved floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Albert Park Lake give a regal sense of occasion.

Make your drinks selection from a lengthy heavy-hitting wine list of old world and young guns, or open with a negroni or champagne from the drinks cart, before opting for a tasting menu or a la carte.

The degustations offer up to 10 mostly balanced courses, painstakingly presented on snazzy Dinosaur Designs plates. Highlights? Dry-aged wagyu freshened with parsley emulsion and persimmon curls, and delicate King George whiting with crisped trout skin nourished by a light and creamy dashi.

Sea urchin, marron and partridge dishes also shine. Desserts trend a little more eclectic with a chocolate ball teamed with strawberry “rocks” and torched spikes of meringue.

Must eat dish: wagyu, parsley and persimmon