The Recreation is priced and positioned in such a way that it bears repeated visits, but the raging success of this bustling “bistro-bottle shop” is really down to the combined experience of its three owners.

Restaurant manager Joe Durrant and sommelier Mark Protheroe (ex-Grossi Florentino) are steeped in old world hospitality, while chef Steven Nelson’s long stints at Jacques Reymond and Bistro Gitan earned him a reputation for robust, flavoursome food.

That’s what you get at The Recreation, too, with dishes including barbecued free-range chicken licked with lemon cream, expertly grilled duck breast with baby turnip, and cracking pig trotter croquettes. Whatever you do, leave room for the black pudding and pear tarte Tatin – an unlikely combo that really rocks the sweet-savoury boat.

Protheroe knows how to match Nelson’s fare with the perfect drop and Durrant will make sure you are well served, even if The Recreation’s fit-out features a lot of wine bottle boxes around your feet.

Yes, it can get rowdy, especially around the communal table up front, but it only takes one visit to realise this could be everyone’s ‘dream local’.

Must eat dish: Black pudding and pear tarte Tatin