Port Phillip Estate sits high above the coast at Red Hill, ensuring it has the best restaurant view in Victoria. But a box seat over Western Port is not the only reason to visit this fine diner on Mornington Peninsula.

The building itself — a dramatic curved structure — undulates amid native grasses and spotted gums. Then there are the vineyards surrounding it, supplying fruit for the exceptional wines you enjoy here, and Stuart Deller’s elegant cooking.

His kitchen brigade conveys a strong sense of place. In spring, Port Phillip’s menu (three courses $85, two $68) included local whiting with kohlrabi, fennel and a slow-cooked egg; “fire roasted’’ dory ornamented with cucumber and lovage; and organic suckling pig under a perfect lid of crackling.

Dessert is Deller’s trump card, especially if he’s drizzling poached Red Hill pears with peninsula honey, but little things count as well: the house-baked epi rolls and the “pure harvested’’ rainwater, served still or sparkling.

Service could be more accomplished — a lack of salesmanship was noticeable — but lunch at Port Phillip Estate, with THAT view, can be deeply satisfying.

Must eat dish: suckling pig with cabbage, apple and coffee beer sauce