If fine dining takes your fancy, Ben Willis’s Griffith homage to the art is one that masterfully walks the tightrope of silver service, casual cachet and deliciousness. The glassed-in corner shop in a small community village has been leading the pack at the pointy end for more than a decade, but they’ve removed the formalities of double-white-tablecloth dining for more contemporary tones, a tactile earthiness to match the best-in-class produce mantra of chef and owner Willis, who works with the producers of the region to hero their wares on his menu.

Sit back and let old-school charm, a stunning wine list and artfully plated tasting menu provide the show. The four-course menu starts with cured silver trevally, spanner crab and a tumble of white beetroot, creme fraiche and daikon. Then choose from an array of smaller and larger dishes. Eggplant, pumpkin and tahini yoghurt are spot-on with plump sweetbreads and lamb rump; heirloom tomatoes thrive with a deeply alluring comte custard; butter leeks and sweet just-cooked mussels partner the savoury earthiness of barramundi; and licorice custard, sorrel sorbet and blackberries add an exclamation.