Well, we waited three months for the sparkling new-look Quay, and you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s a new restaurant entirely. Gone is the double-white-tablecloths ethos of yesteryear and in its place is a sharp, smart, cutting-edge design of blue carpet, stingray skin-inspired leather partitions, luxurious and minimalist leather chairs, timber tables and even more views than thought imaginable from the top corner of the Overseas Passenger Terminal. There’s more space between tables, cleverly designed areas and it’s just a little more relaxed (thankfully) without losing the seriously professional intent.

Of course, they may have dropped about $4m on the fitout, but it’s not the only thing to experience a makeover. Chef Peter Gilmore took the time to connect even more with the producers he sources from to deliver an eating experience that has them gasping in the stalls. Sure, the snow egg is gone, but a myriad of magnificent dishes have emerged to deliver a new era for one of Australia’s most influential and awarded restaurants.

Raw scallop, squid and clams wade in virgin soy, aged vinegar and flecks of seaweed in a special ‘rockpool’ designed bowl. An homage to sea urchin sees the butter of the sea sitting in chawanmushi and served with seaweed broth, salmon roe, fish maw, shaved bottarga and salted egg.

Truffle butter partners malt barley crumpets, and an evolution of Gilmore’s Pork jowl dish sees it topped with raw razor clam and crackling made from sea cucumber. The new hits never stop, so you’d better make a booking.

Must eat dish: Hand harvested seafood, virgin soy, seaweed, aged vinegar