The menu is a thesaurus to the cuisine of the nation that invented restaurants. It is replete with lovely words such as foie gras, quail terrine, cassoulet, ballotine of free-range chicken, stuffed pig trotters, bouillabaisse, chocolate fondant, creme brulee, souffle and oeufs a la neige (floating island).  There’s the delightful vibrant sand crab lasagne with a creamy crustacean sauce and where else in Australia, please tell us, will you find the classical French dish canard a la presse (pressed duck).

Here, the Lutece chefs grind the bones in the metal press to extract the juices and marrows for a reduction enriched with the livers, cognac, red wine and butter (24 hours’ notice is required to order the dish). The rich sauce is theatrically set alight and served over the breast with truffled potatoes and peas. The legs are served as a second course in the time-honoured manner of greats such as Paul Bocuse and Auguste Escoffier. The duck demands a pinot and there are plenty to choose from on the exclusively French list.

Must-eat dish: Canard a la presse.