It was out with the tablecloths and in with custom light fittings, brass features, handsome American oak floorboards — oh, and a stonking great Josper oven and Asado grill — when Florentino Grill reopened at the start of this year. And with its new look came a focused dedication to the fare of Tuscany, where smaller dishes to start — a meaty terrine of silken rich decadence known as musette, say, or caramelised nuggets of fennel-heavy pork sausages with pickled artichoke — segue seamlessly into out-of- the-norm pasta including fat ribbons of testaroli drizzled in olive oil, basil and parmigiana, or little pici twists tossed through wild boar ragout.

Grill in name and nature, steak remains an excellent option, that Asado delivering a glorious salted crust to one of five namechecked options. Service, led by Carlos Grossi, is as big-hearted and generous as the wine list is large, sharing a cellar as it does with the top-end- of-town magnet upstairs.

Accessible, hospitable and genuinely welcoming, the new-look Grill has been born anew.