There’s no Chinoiserie to speak of, just a slick, modern fit-out inspired by its multi-level, industrial, warehouse-style building. But with all that blonde timber, concrete and hard surfaces, it can become noisier than a footy game, so it’s best for casual meals with friends rather than any intimate affair.

The menu also lends itself best to sharing among groups – divided into raw, dim sum, small and large plates. A small plate of smoked pork and truffle congee brings warmth and comfort, while roast pork neck with a char siu glaze from the large plates has bags of flavour and is meltingly tender. But where diners should spend the bulk of their time and budget is on the dim sum.

Chef Jake Pregnell has assembled a stellar team of dumpling masters who turn out sensational steaming dishes that beg to be enjoyed with a glass of wine or cocktail from the approachable but considered and smartly varied drinks list.

A must is the lobster and chive har gow, just ensure its dripping in the accompanying sauce, while the truffle and prawn har gow and chilli crab and pork xiao long bao demand equal attention.

With affable and attentive service who do their best with a packed dining room, this is a cool and fun place you’ll want to take your mates to.

Must-eat dish: Lobster and chive har gow