Carnivores, pay attention: This is not your lentil mash or asparagus-spear-on-a-plate vegetarian dining. Find a dish where you miss the meat and we’ll eat your plate. It would be a pleasure, in fact.

This is vegetarian with fine-dining cred, a kitchen helmed not just by co-owner Brent Savage of Bentley Restaurant & Bar and Monopole, but more recently Chris Benedet (Rockpool, Cirrus).

When protein doesn’t take centre stage, there’s a knockout fine-tuning of flavours that allows each course to be more than the sum of its parts. Creamy stracciatella is topped with sweet carrot ribbons and their tops, fried to a pleasing crunch, and the plate is dusted with fermented banana, not unlike sweet, flavour-packed nutmeg. Baby corn comes in its rustic husk with a slick of soured cream, buttery and rich, then the lot is given a generous dusting of miso milk crumb.  

A block of pressed potato, slivers of would-be transparent potato slices held into shape and roasted, given a savoury char and then doused in umami, salty, sweet, rich wannabe gravy. Long roasted scallions pretty up the plate – this is our roast dinner for the evening – and baby nasturtium sprigs add further peppery freshness to the plate.

Yellow soundly busts the myth that you need meat to sate. Every forkful reveals hidden depths of deliciousness. Yellow deserves a triumphant call to all people who just like good food, as well as those who care that no animal was harmed in the production of this meal.

Must-eat dish: Stracciatella, carrot and fermented banana