Long the hangout for city suits networking over coffee and knocking off over drinks, smart CBD pub Collins Quarter is now also a top spot for lunch and dinner. In fact, there’s seriously good food coming out of the Luke Headon-helmed kitchen here that puts his time spent in London’s Michelin-starred Restaurant Story to excellent use on the plate.

That might look like a knockout dish of king dory on char-edged cabbage and a butter sauce enlivened by desert limes. Or a hefty rib eye of Berkshire pork with a show-stealing side of kohlrabi poached in pear juice and butter.

A standout steak sandwich with a clove-bright beetroot relish and excellent Middle Eastern-spiced sausage rolls take care of snacks with equal class. In the glass, Vic-dominant taps look after frothies, while a nicely tended cellar celebrates the local while picking up good stuff from afar.

Service is familiarly formal, and while it gets after-work packed with drinkers, post happy hour settle into one of the high-backed booths in Colin’s Diner – set with hefty cutlery, linen napkins and good glassware – and enjoy one of the city’s great value meals.

Must-eat dish: Dory with cucumber and desert lime