Housed beneath the old St Paul’s Tavern on the corner of Wharf and Leichhardt streets, the cellar-like space of La Cache a Vin heaves with French rustic, country charm thanks to low-hanging beams, white rendered bricks and archways, timber tables and leather banquettes.

Leather also binds the menu: a collection of classic French dishes from pate en croute to steak with maitre d’hotel butter, even foie gras with peach compote and bread.

The signature souffle – this time confit onion and gruyere – is delicate in texture and flavour and arrives floating in a subtle Kirsch velouté.

The Patagonian toothfish caught in waters off South America comes with a light beurre blanc and punchy tomato relish necessary to stand up to its meaty, pork belly-like texture.

The fish of the day on a recent visit was New Zealand John Dory – the generously sized fillet sitting in a ring of black mussels, sans shells, and vanilla bean-flecked cream sauce dominated by leek.

Duck cassoulet features a slab of smoky pork belly, Toulouse-style pork sausage and duck that falls off the bone.

Faultless is the entirely French wine list, which has a diverse and abundant offering across all price points. There is also a concise, yet interesting by-the-glass section, well-matched to the menu. The bar manager is also on hand to help diners navigate the myriad choices.

With attentive and polished wait staff, La Cache a Vin is a solid package and sure to be a neighbourhood favourite for the Francophiles among us.

Must-eat dish: Patagonian toothfish