Whether you opt to perch at the copper bar and nurse a negroni while snacking on salumi, or instead settle into five courses of the chef’s choosing in the gloriously verdant covered courtyard, Scott Pickett’s vision of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro remains as user-friendly as ever. And perhaps, two years on, it’s even better, having settled into a well hewn groove, where Europhilic hits by bottle and glass pair elegantly with the everyday eating that comes with fine-dining finesse.

Fingers of parmesan fries sprinkled with faux bacon, and salt and vinegar kale chips are best-in- class snacks that beg for a beer to begin, while dramatic squid ink tagliatelle and snugly parmesan gnocchi with pumpkin welcome all with open arms. Roasted chicken with bread sauce ups the comfort factor to why-bother- cooking-at- home, bettered only perhaps by a ginger-spiced pineapple tarte latin that adds a clever twist to the classic.

Estelle Bistro really is the neighbourhood joint everyone deserves.

Must eat dish: parmesan fries