Tim Foster’s comfortable Kyneton dining room is a joyful ode to this cool-climate region that’s celebrated on the plate and in the glass.

The hyper-local list filled with loads of lovely sub-$50-a-bottle drinking is as much a pleasure to read as it is to sup from, while the menu filled with accomplished bistro classics that are big on flavour, technique and portion size means no one’s leaving hungry.

A brilliantly vibrant, orange-sweet carrot risotto with whole baby heirloom carrots and Holy Goat cheese is such a win for the veg team, carnivores can almost overlook the excellent aged Inglewood beef with classic dauphinoise potatoes and not miss out.

With hazelnut-crumbed brains next to perfectly pink slices of rump, Rockwood Cottage lamb is shown off to excellent effect, especially when teamed with crisp parsnip and sharp red cabbage on the plate, while expertly cooked fish comes pan-tanned atop a Mediterranean braise of olives, tomato and octopus for the real catch of the day. Service can falter when busy, but who’s in a rush when there’s brown butter ice cream with gorgeously chewy pistachio dacquoise to look forward to?

Must-eat dish: Rockwood Cottage lamb