It’s Friday night and the joint is jumping.

Gal pals gossip over cocktails, groups of suits spin the lazy susan and date-night duos share the communal table with silver-haired foxes. Longrain may well be into its second decade but its pan-generational appeal is as strong as ever, thanks to a winning formula of spot-on service, precise and friendly Thai dishes and a well-priced, cuisine-matched drinks list.

Our tip: come with a group, for the banquet offering is hard to beat.  Longrain’s betel leaf is still a two-bite wonder of smoked trout and green papaya while sticky nuggets of pork belly and a coconut-rich Panang curry share the main stage. The crisp-fried whole fish is a non-negotiable must, a fin-to-tail celebration of chilli-battered crunch and sweet flesh.

There’s another party going on upstairs at Longsong, a cleverly converted warehouse where chef David Moyle works his magic with a woodfired grill and stove. Skewered snacks come first: duck hearts with horseradish, baby octopus with dried olive and chilli. Then larger sharing dishes. We loved Moyle’s tangy salad of raw kingfish, his lemony tiles of grilled mackerel, his fat-frilled duck breast lolling in a plum sauce. Flatbread fried in duck fat and sesame? Yes, please.

The whole place celebrates primary producers, brewers and distillers, so you’re bound to find the right drink to go with those buttery Moreton Bay bugs and coal-roasted potatoes.

Must-eat dish: Crispy fried fish with chilli, tamarind, lime