It remains one of Mornington Peninsula’s most popular dining rooms, where even a winter’s weekend lunch takes a month of planning. And it’s worth a visit to 10 Minutes by Tractor for the wine list alone, for this weighty tome — with its focus on pinot and chardonnay from around the world annotated with care and love — is one of the most cleverly created wine lists in the state.

With a huge selection of back vintages and sub regions to delve into, it’s a cellar curated with artful class. And chef Stuart Bell’s menu is a worthy companion, where French technique is applied to Peninsula produce to elegant effect. House-smoked salmon served with a rainbow of beetroots is a riot of colours and textures, while pan-seared halibut served with mushroom puree and flowering stalks of cauliflower is a study in simple perfection.

Suited service can err to the formal and can seem at odds with the bucolic surrounds, but when a plate of oozy ripe cheese lands, resisting the charms of that incredible cellar is nigh-on impossible.

Must eat dish: house-smoked salmon