From humble beginnings in Rozelle, Tetsuya’s is an institution – if you’ve never been, you simply must at least once. Behind the sliding electric gate on Kent Street is the culinary temple where a series of rooms, tranquil Japanese garden, and old school silver service deliver quite a special moment. There are more staff than guests, and each course arrives with a brief description (you’re given the menu once you leave). In some ways Tetsuya’s has paused in another time, but there is much beauty in that – as there is in many of the dishes throughout the eight course degustation.

Pickled daikon is arranged like a flower, adding freshness to creamy raw kingfish topped with avruga caviar. WA pearl meat sliced thinly partners umami-rich conift chicken wing flesh, while pickled shitake provides balance. Beautifully cooked bass grouper shimmers next to charred sugarloaf cabbage, while Ranger Valley wagyu sirloin shares the plate with gorgeous king brown and crisp kale.

There is, of course, still the signature dish – which is passé for some and perfect for others – confit of ocean trout with a crust of kombu, chives and sea salt with salad of apple and witflof, and a spoon of caviar for good measure.

Yuzu sorbet cleanses the palate before the ultra decadent white, dark and milk chocolate cake has you feeling fuller than the last bus to Penrith.   

Must eat dish: Wagyu, king brown, kale