Few chefs have had such a monumental impact on not only the Queensland restaurant industry, but the Australian one as well. Yep, Philip Johnson carved the path for contemporary dining that put emphasis on stellar local produce without doing too much to it. A let-the-produce-sing-its-own-song ethos.

His bistro-style restaurant, which opened way back in 1995 in a former tea warehouse, has been banging the local, sustainable drum for longer than most, but this is no marketing ploy, it’s just the modus operandi that underpins the big deliciousness that arrives on each plate.

It may be at the pointy end of the dining spectrum, but Johnson’s vision of modern dining is as inclusive, restrained and casual as it is a serious lesson in sophisticated eating experiences. An energetic, almost boisterous room hums with an alluring buzz as classic service bridges sincerity and smart attentiveness with great aplomb. With such joy emerging from the kitchen, it’s not hard to understand why all the staff are so thrilled to feed you. Superbly sweet spanner crab, lemon and rocket entwine with tagliatelle. Smoked egg yolk and the zing of piccalilli bring a playfulness to wagyu tongue. Garlic and almond sauce help round out the savoury Murray cod, while cardamom ice cream brings oomph to warm pumpkin brioche. Long live E’cco Bistro.

Must-eat dish: To share – Milly Hill za’atar-spiced and herb-crusted lamb shoulder, shirazi salad, smoked eggplant, mint garlic, blackened onions