It’s a brave new way of interpreting old-world French at Restaurant Hubert, the elegant candlelit bistro from the Swillhouse group (the team behind Shady Pines Saloon, Frankie’s Pizza and The Baxter Inn). Managing to harness the balance of hipster meets elegance that’s so elusive in Sydney restaurants, at Hubert knowledge is matched with passion and delivered confidently without pretension.

Dan Pepperell, (described by a waiter as “the most easygoing chef in Sydney”) has a remarkable handle on delicious food, from the bar snacks (is this the best tartare in Sydney?) down to the salade. The Malakoff is ridiculously good – a lightly crumbed hors d’oevre of gruyere and Dijon mustard, fried until the cheese is molten and served with a tangy dill pickle. It’s the quintessential intro to Pepperell’s food. Order one per person to avoid disappointment.

As live jazz drifts into the restaurant, it’s hard not to feel completely transported to another time and place. Chicken fricassee comes as the whole bird, lush and tender, served with bread sauce and seasoned with green garlic. Pommes Anna – thinly sliced potatoes layered with beurre blanc – is a must, as is tender leaves of red velvet lettuce and soft herbs dressed in a perfect caper vinaigrette. The bavette steak is impeccably cooked to medium-rare, served with a classic café de Paris butter.

Speaking of impeccable, the savvy front-of-house team is well versed in Hubert’s winning trifecta of menu, martinis and music, and while they only take bookings for six-plus people, this is one restaurant that’s worth the table-seeking wait. There are few restaurants in Sydney’s recent culinary history that have resonated à la Hubert.