The chef-patron of acclaimed Brisbane French restaurant Montrachet, Shannon Kellam, tackles a classic French sauce like a painter – layering flavours together as if they were brushstrokes, building upon each one with such finesse and delicacy the result is a complex and nuanced work of art that needs to be savoured.

The latte-hued broth pooling around an entree of melting pumpkin gnocchi, opaque bites of Moreton Bay bug, broad beans and slivers of radish is one such example.  Another is the subtly flavoured bisque around the signature crabmeat and gruyere cheese souffle that reinforces the seafood flavour without overwhelming the dish. Both are so good that if they were served at home, the bowls would be licked clean. Montrachet is not one for the dieter, but a place for pure and utter indulgence. When calories don’t count and a special occasion deserves a special meal.

The wine list enforces this visions for excellence, with an all-consuming list of French classics alongside more interesting boutique vino at the higher end of the price scale. Sommelier Romain Maunier is on hand to help make the perfect wine-food pairing, while diners will want for nothing with the polished, professional and efficient front of house team commanded by Kellam’s partner Clare Wallace. With its graceful and elegant fit-out brandishing pressed metal ceilings, timber floors, scarlet leather upholstery and a glistening long bar, Montrachet delivers a dining experience to remember.

Must-eat dish: Crab and gruyere soufflé