The French don’t follow trends, they set them. And so it is at Felix, the Chanel suit of the food world – a bastion of effortless, timeless chic – that continues to fly under the radar ever since chef Lauren Murdoch first put it on the map in 2010. These days it’s Nathan Johnson in the kitchen serving beautifully executed textbook bistro fare in Merivale’s mellifluous ode to Paris. The charming laneway setting, sophisticated interior – an authentic mix of white subway tiles, bentwood chairs, pewter bar and golden light cast from vintage lamp shades dripping with beads – along with the assured and efficient service (most of it complete with French accent) sets the scene for a night in Paris, so much so that Gertrude Stein propped at the bar sipping a glass of pernod would not look out of place.

The brasserie ‘best-of’ menu starts with oysters (three east coast varieties on the night we visit) and salmon rillettes, but do not miss a stand-out twice-baked Gruyere soufflé that has the impossible consistency of whipped custard – at once light as air and decadently silken and unctuous. For main, there’s a separate steak menu featuring some of the country’s best beef producers in steak frites (Ranger’s Valley) and fillet mignon (Cape Grim), or a selection of plates that respect tradition and remind us of the pleasures of French cooking in this post-modern era of share plates, foraged greens and deconstructed lemon tarts.

John Dory with brown butter and mushrooms is a case in point – the white fish sweet and delicate with an impressively golden caramelised crust, the earthy nuttiness of the butter and mushrooms adding balanced umami. While the menu is concise and precise – merci beaucoup! – most will appreciate a hand navigating the hefty wine list. Our brief of a happy meeting point between a Sancerre and Vouvray is answered with the sommelier’s suggestion of a rare Romorantin from the Loire Valley, a white wine with minerality, citrus fruits and a touch of honey that we would have otherwise overlooked, unable to pronounce it in the first place. Our bottle of ‘Romo’ sums up all that is great about Felix, it’s a classic French varietal with a long and esteemed history, but which is at home in the present day where it surprises and delights, linking past and present in an intoxicating, satisfying mix.

Must eat dish: Twice baked Gruyere soufflé, sauce soubise, watercress