With its glorious views across the valley of vines to lush green paddocks dotted with Black Angus quietly going about their business, there are few better places to while away an afternoon than at Hogget Kitchen. Here in the stylish country dining room, chef Trevor Perkins champions the best of Gippsland produce, ably backed up by top drops from trailblazing winemakers Pat Sullivan and William Downie.

Start with one of the best charcuterie plates in the state, where deep ruby venison bresaola, smoky pastrami and thick cuts of creamy prosciutto are served with pickled pine mushrooms and fat olives from the winery grove. With house ciabatta hot from the oven, it’s an elegant opener.

Gamey rabbit boudin blanc might crown an excellent risotto studded with artichoke crisps for crunch, though for Sunday lunch it’s hard to go past a generous homely roast of Gippsland white dorper lamb with whole sweet potato. Quince and apple pie with Jersey ice cream is equally comforting.

Service is smart, value is great (three courses are $65), and that view is unbeatable.

An oft-unsung region has found its hero to deliver a wonderful treat. Set the GPS to Warragul.

Must eat dish: Gippsland lamb