Neighborhood feels with Euro smarts sums up the Mouse’s MO.

It’s classy yet cool, elegant yet casual, and redefines dining out with food given fine-dining shine minus the pageantry. It comes in a dramatically dark and glossy-tiled dining room in the backblocks of Little Italy, a bijou bar-restaurant with a ripper wine list of maximum drinkability.

Let knowledgeable staff steer you to what’s good by the glass or bottle, and group dishes — listed simply by their ingredients — with some cohesion.

The chicken breast with soured cream is precisely judged, juicy bird with a balanced, super-luxe sauce unifying the plate, all to a backbeat of hazelnut and chicory. Slow-roast red cabbage might be a signature, but the cauliflower is nudging the crown, half a head roasted and bolstered with almond, lemon and capers. Desserts tread a little more eclectic, such as the crunchy and sweet malted barley ice cream with caramelised koji.

This quiet achiever is all about subtle twists and innovation, but it’s never style over substance. Reliable and recommended.

Must eat dish: chicken breast with soured cream