In the midst of Medusa motifs, gold trim and designer-everything, there’s little room for the minimalist. Yet, it was in simplifying its signature restaurant that Palazzo Versace put it back on the foodie map. The haute hotel relaunched fine-dining stalwart Vanitas a year ago, promising to pare its increasingly intricate offering back to the beauty of its Italian roots. It’s the best move they could have made.

While the formal dining room with its small fortune of tablewear can feel a tad intimidating at times, there’s culinary comfort aplenty.  Sample squid-ink linguini with the subtle sweetness of spanner crab, earthy tortellini and well-executed wagyu, before chasing an espresso-soaked affogato with a shot of Valrhona chocolate.

Neatly portioned degustations step up the decadence while remaining within reach for a special occasion. As one of the region’s final bastions of fine-dining service, expect traditional treatment and the services of a skilled sommelier to help you spend your allowance on luxury labels.

The space has a more approachable aspect by day, so consider investing in a long lunch. The dining area, dominated by a 13m homage to Gianni Versace, is flooded with light, borrowing resort vibes from the adjoining pool.

Must-eat dish: Wild mushroom tortellini, truffle, egg yolk