Carciofi ripieni. Ravioli del plin. Arrosto di maiale and pesce al forno. No, we’re not in Tuscany but downtown Heidelberg, and it’s where you’ll find some of the best Italian cooking in Melbourne.

Glenn Laurie, putting his years of training at London’s famed River Cafe to excellent use in his smart suburban restaurant, is serving up a daily changing menu that truly pays heed to the seasons.

So that ravioli might not be on the menu, but if it is you’ll be served a bowl of such swoon-worthy delight — the pasta filled with slow-braised veal in a chicken broth of rare refinement — it alone is every reason to visit. First-of- the-season asparagus with creamy buffalo mozzarella is a lesson in simplicity, while baked artichoke, stuffed with bread and sausage, is as unapologetically authentic as it is delicious. The pork, rolled with herbs and roasted to crisp-skinned glory, is another must.

A small but sharp and keenly priced all-Italian wine list, and panna cotta with the best wobble in town, seals what really is an incredible deal.

Must eat dish: arrosto di maiale (roasted pork belly)