With a constant flurry of restaurants opening in Sydney, it feels almost nostalgic to be back at old faithful Cho Cho San. Alongside sister Greek restaurant The Apollo, a few doors up the road, this modern Japanese diner is a no-fail, no surprises venue, where food, wine and service all work in neat synchronicity.  

Snacks of pork katsu stuffed into steamed bao buns always delight, served alongside Sydney rock oysters dressed with punchy wasabi vinegar. Despite a regularly jam-packed space and busy nights from Monday to Sunday, service is polished and professional; seasoned waitstaff glide between tables and the busy bar, offering knowledgeable wine suggestions, menu explanations and good neighbourhood chat.

Fish collars are glazed in a sticky teriyaki marinade and well-charred on the hibachi, utilising the fatty, often discarded flesh of the fish. Matched to Jauma’s semillion chenin, a natural South Australian wine with great personality, it’s finger lickin’ good food. Slippery udon noodles coated in a ‘Japanese Bolognese’ is always a must-order – a great spice and salt kick is perfectly suited to the fatty pork mince – and regulars won’t leave without a mini ice cream cone of green tea soft serve.

It’s consistency that makes this restaurant great, and why we’ll keep coming back.

Must eat dish: Teriyaki fish collars