Staying the fine-dining distance in Melbourne is Ezard, the sleek Adelphi Hotel home of Teage Ezard’s refined Asian-leaning plates since 1999.

Today, whether in tasting menus or a la carte, mains shine brightest, like the Chinese-style duck, rosy-centred slices on a bed of funky black rice, freshened with spring onion and turnip. Or the confident harmony of just-cooked blue eye trevalla topped with wisps of pancetta, perched on silky creamed cauliflower with a crumbed quail egg, and chicken consommé.

However, two signatures land wide. Selections on the dessert platter were fridge-cold, while the dressing on the scallop dumplings was too sweet with mirin to be enjoyable.

Service also stood out for the wrong reasons. A slightly early arrival sees us sent to the waiting area with a less-than-warm welcome.

With prices unabashedly occasion (or corporate card) dining, this flagship can lack the finesse of old.

Must eat dish: Chinese-style duck