Coda has lost none of its cachet since opening in 2009. Getting a table for dinner at this basement hot spot can be a month in the making but any wait is worth it.

A magnificent single Hervey Bay scallop set on creamy pearl tapioca and hatted with Yarra Valley salmon caviar sets the bar high. Graduate to share plates, perhaps sensational buffalo mozzarella teamed with peas and mini zucchini fritters, or a glistening salad of diced yellowfin tuna topped with sesame, ponzu and pops of green tobiko.

A main of O’Connor scotch fillet was undone by an overpowering garlic emulsion, but dessert righted things with peanut butter parfait, a blissfully gooey hunk with a layer of marshmallow on a dark chocolate base.

Wines lean to France but local drops are interesting, too, served by well-drilled and obliging staff.

Must eat dish: Hervey Bay scallop