Taking over the Little Collins Street site that was home to Bistro Vue for the past decade or so, this latest addition to Shannon Bennett’s stable of restaurants – named after the Japanese method of humanely slaughtering fish – swaps the steak frites for the sea.

An admirable focus on seafood (though not as singular as it was upon opening at the end of 2017) makes the most of ethically-sourced bounty, brought to the spot-lit tables by sleekly attired staff.

“Fish and chips” is exactly that but not. Here, slices of yellow fin tuna wrap the finest whispers of the crispest potato dusted with puckeringly sharp vinegar powder, creating the poshest reinvention of a classic yet seen.

A gorgeously delicate, perfect tart filled with Morton Bay bug meat, topped with finger lime and chives, is at once fleeting and sublime, while torched mackerel is more robust but no less refined.  

Fab finger food joy is found in the “fish snags” (also seen at Vue de Monde) that nestle within a sweet brioche bun, topped with kohlrabi and dotted with tarragon mayo, while bigger fish dishes from the Josper are simply treated to let the excellent produce shine.

Must eat dish: Fish snags