Dining on the terracotta-tiled terrace with views across the river to the Story Bridge is terrific, but sitting inside is no lesser option; there are still views as well as an attractive combination of lashings of plants, cowhide rugs, a curving concrete bar and a busy open kitchen where chefs tend the wood-fired grill. Staff are well-drilled and drinks from a very decent Australian-focused list appear almost instantly after ordering, even on a busy Friday night.

Sweet barramundi collar flesh is enhanced by a seasoning of lemon myrtle salt, with burnt butter for dipping while creamy, and a stack of mini toasts are on hand ready to dig into creamy grilled bone marrow with a coating of anchovy persillade. Mains are similarly appealing with soft, succulent pork jowl matched with fermented garlic, charred pear, mustard leaf and turnip while the wagyu flank is a fine example of grill cooking. A side of chips with confit garlic emulsion is a worthy extra.

Coconut sorbet with roast pineapple and roast white chocolate, maintains standards to the end.

 Must-eat dish: Wagyu flank