It might be the best place to eat in sleepy regional town Yass, but its also one of the most satisfying restaurants in the whole state. Owners Adam Bantock and Brooke Sainsbery took a grand old 1950s weatherboard cottage and turned it into a quintessential regional bistro where the locals are well sated and the tourists are turning up in droves.

Arrive at the white picket fence across the road from the awe-striking Lovat Chapel and stroll along the path to dine alfresco on the deck, or get cosy inside where wooden floorboards, classic bistro chairs and banquettes fill up fast with foodies onto a good thing.

The wine list champions wines of the region, while in the kitchen chef Adam leans on the techniques of traditional Italian trattorias and French Bistros by using quality Australian produce and a lighter, more delicate touch, without losing the big hearty the soul of each dish.

Start with marinated sardines with pickles, lightly cured king trout with shaved fennel and celeriac or the must-order spanner crab and prawn Cavatelli tossed in chilli and tarragon. White beans, confit duck leg and lamb neck star in the rich house cassoulet, while kipfler potatoes and capers combine beautifully with seared bonito.

Must eat dish: Hand rolled cavatelli, prawn & spanner crab, chilli, fioretto & tarragon