It might be pushing into its second decade, but Longrain feels as sprightly as ever. Tables fill up fast at this no-bookings pioneer, pumping most evenings with everyone from families to suits and Tinder twos. Classic Thai food placed in a modern context is well executed, and the glam warehouse fit out exudes an up-market ambience without being stiff.

It’s a compact menu by Asian standards, but each dish shows complexity and generosity. Betel leaves are a favoured starter, one-bite wonders wrapping prawn, peanuts, ginger and lime, while the egg net appeals with its lacy web concealing a mix of pork, prawns and caramelised coconut. Offset its sweetness with the light and lovely coconut-poached chicken curry freshened with papaya and mint.

Ask for half serves to taste more dishes or leave room for dessert, perhaps vanilla tapioca with lychee sorbet. Intriguing cocktails are bestowed the same attention to detail as the food.

Must eat dish: coconut-poached chicken