Melbourne isn’t short on pan-Asian eateries, but Jerry Mai’s personality-packed Annam stands out from the crowd.

Her brand of Vietnamese, Cambodian and Thai flavours are zesty and exciting, as are the party-starting moves of red chopsticks and kung fu movies projected on the wall of this sleek industrial space.

But for all the playfulness, there’s also precision – in the killer cocktails list masterfully blending Asian ingredients, as well as in the small(ish) but perfectly formed menu.

The sweet hit of the oxtail dumplings, the meat braised in masterstock and syrupy sarsaparilla, rightfully have a cult following, while the pork hock, all crunchy outer, juicy flesh and sticky with pineapple salsa, comes with lettuce and herbs to apply to banh tieu (soft, hollow doughnuts) for some finger-licking fun.

And do do desserts, especially the tropical trip of a cracked young coconut cupping coconut sorbet and jelly.

Must eat dish: Oxtail dumplings