Cumulus Inc is Melbourne’s ultimate all rounder…a perfect pit stop for breakfast, lunch or dinner. And whenever you visit, expect unfailingly friendly, well-informed service. Going early? Then you’re urged to have Cumulus Bircher muesli — one of the best in town — or the divine crumpets saturated with Rooftop Honey.

Take lunch at the kitchen bar if possible. That way you can watch Andrew McConnell’s brigade at work while you savour mackerel on brioche or oysters with your vermentino.

Cumulus dispenses with entrees and mains. Divided into charcuterie, salads and comestibles, and fish and meat, the all-day menu can take you from a warming chestnut soup with crispy duck to smoked brisket and kohlrabi, or a chopped broccoli salad with walnut and anchovy.

At night, when warm light softens its hard industrial wedges, Cumulus encourages share dishes.

Whole flounder, perhaps, or the eye-popping roast shoulder of lamb. To finish? Got to be a Cumulus madeleine, baked to order and oozing lemon curd.

Must eat dish: homemade crumpets