66. Nomad, Surry Hills

Nomad zucchini flowers
Nomad zucchini flowers

Once you wander in, you won’t want to leave. Imagery by Petrina Tinslay.

This down-to-earth eatery in Surry Hills eschews the smears and spheres of molecular gastronomy for a pared-back menu that celebrates the culinary methods of old, from baking to pickling, smoking and fermenting.

What makes Nomad really worth the trek is its bounty of homemade offerings. The kitchen flips out blistery discs of flatbread, made fresh to order. Lather up the folds with buttery cannellini bean hummus or dredge through the silky curds of a just-burst burrata.  

Cheese is also churned out daily, including the house specialty, a jersey milk haloumi paired with roasted crimson grapes, or fresh ricotta with smoked Nardin anchovies.

Nomad haloumi

 

Nose-to-tail eating informs much of the menu, with offcuts featuring in some of Nomad’s most celebrated dishes. Those with an adventurous palate will love the grilled wagyu tongue, matched with soft-sour yoghurt and a biting chilli oil, while offal and odd bits work their way into a peppery tongue salami, as well as various other cured meats on the house charcuterie board.  

Once a furniture showroom, the high-ceilinged warehouse space is as full as ever with beautiful design pieces, including a solid American oak bar that wraps around the open kitchen. Battered brick walls and gleaming rows of fermented veg add a dose of country homeliness.

If you feel like getting a bit pickled yourself, sommelier Gerrard Bellis has put together an exceptional selection of Australian-only wines, ranging from natural and biodynamic offerings to obscure varietals and innovative blends.  

The wine list alone is worth another journey back.

Must eat dish: David Blackmore 9+ wagyu tongue with jersey yoghurt and chilli oil

 

16 Foster St Surry Hills NSW 2010

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