Sirromet’s signature restaurant Lurleen’s has much to love – the magical site, the impressive weight of the building, the informal but somehow also special feel of the place that makes each visit an “occasion”. When it hums, it equals the best. As a nod to fine dining there are two early free bits: apple crisps with miso, and sourdough with burnt butter.

The welcome amuse allows time to scan the menu and the wine list, which is simply superb. Most of it is Sirromet (and there are plenty of magical wines among its ranges), but there’s also a ripping “cellar selection” with pot-shotted burgundies, bordeaux, barolos and premium Australians.

The food is very good. Hervey Bay scallops, for example, come on a bed of spiced carrot puree with two little blue-mackerel steaks. A main of pot-au-feu is slightly pink veal for the protein, turned vegetables, brioche bun spread with anchovy butter instead of the traditional bread and bone marrow. It’s a perfect winter dish. Lurleen’s is geared to numbers and you can feel a little “processed” by the whole experience.

But the product is good, the menu interesting and the setting spectacular.

Must-eat dish: Rose veal “pot an feu”