Occupying an old Commonwealth Bank site down the posh end of Potts Point, this chic French bistro sets the scene for romance.

The pillared dining room is gleaming with copper handrails and honeycomb floor tiles, while bentwood chairs sit smartly around the napery-free tables. All that’s missing is a view of the Eiffel Tower.

Not just for loved-up couples or discreet liaisons, the bistro has circular booths, too, perfect for an after-work aperitif or Champagne-drenched celebration.

Prepare to be wooed with food starting with a twice-cooked soufflé, which turns heads and opens mouths as it glides across the dining room.

Crusted with Comté and swimming in a bubbling cheese bath, this obscenely rich starter will have you swooning in your seat.

However, it’s not just cheese that fights for your affection. It’s butter, too.

On cue, out comes the steak frites, cooked à la perfection and slathered with a seasoned knob of Café de Paris butter that dribbles teasingly between each blushing strip of sirloin.

It comes with French fries, as de rigueur, but it’s also worth getting the pretty little salad of nashi pear, finessed with celery shavings, hand-picked chicory and a smattering of milky hazelnuts.

Drinks range from a flirty kir royale cocktail, gussied up with chamomile, honey and lavender, to a serious French wine list, which traces vineyards from the Loire Valley over to Burgundy and Bordeaux.

Service is neither snobby nor snivelling, with waitstaff diligently taking coats, topping up water and bringing out more pots of the deliciously salty butter. Merci beaucoup

Goodbyes are always hard, especially after such a memorable meal. Just remember, it’s not forever. You can always come again next week.

Must-eat dish: Comté cheese soufflé