The original A Tavola has that well-worn-in, warm welcome that you’d expect on the streets of Italy. Rustic in appearance, it’s all white walls, blackboards and wooden tables, with modern rose gold spherical lighting and fresh pasta hanging on racks partially shielding the kitchen from diners at the long communal table that’s front and centre. Of course there’s also the dining room at the back, and another upstairs, but there’s something convivial about this chatter-smattered shared table.

Service is pleasant and informed, with full explanations not just on the food – there’s a short, regular menu, and a list of specials every day – but also on the wine; when we ordered the Montepulciano, it was flagged as an Abruzzo and therefore not in the common style. It’s explained that the menu card is basically three snacks, three entrees, three mains and three sides to complement the daily changing blackboard of fresh pastas. We can pick everything from one menu, or mix things around.

Baked olives seems like a no-brainer to kick off the evening, and fried salami Veneto comes on a bed of polenta, a healthy amount of Parmigiano adding a bit of sharpness to the creamy dish. Two dishes off the blackboard are up next: pappardelle con ragu di manzo is beautifully tender braised beef with red wine and tomato, the pasta perfected, the horseradish a little lacking. Ravioli con pastinaca e castagne is the intriguing winning dish of the night, slick and rich with parsnip, ricotta and butter, chestnut and crispy sage adding texture.

A Tavola remains a neighbourhood favourite serving up satisfying bowls of delicious pasta. Don’t go changin’.

Must eat dish: Ravioli con pastinaca e castagne