The name is apt. Transformer – a “vegan, gluten-free and fructose-friendly” restaurant in an old electrical transformer factory – is changing the way we all regard vegetarian food.  And the owners of this thriving business, just off Brunswick Street, are doing it without trumpeting the fact that their menu is meat-free. Transformer’s food is just very good. Full stop.

Start with a virtuous digestive. A kimchi juice, perhaps, with a hint of kaffir lime, or an elixir heady with ginger, turmeric, date molasses and coconut water. Then bring on the smoked beetroot and pecan dip with delicious flatbread. The spelt and seed steamed buns bulging with crispy smoked tofu. Oh, and a couple of sweet corn fritters for dipping into chipotle mayo.

You can almost feel a creative current flowing at Transformer, especially when its gifted chefs send out a Persian red lentil and black rice pilaf or, better still, gnocchi of celestial lightness. Transformer’s precisely prepared version – elevated by saffron, ricotta and parmesan, anointed with peas, cultured butter, tarragon and lemon – is one of our dishes of the year. More please.

Unpretentious service and a cool fit-out – timber, concrete and lots of greenery – seals the deal here.

Must-eat dish: Saffron, ricotta and parmesan gnocchi