More than four years into his tenure as head chef at Gerard’s Bistro, Ben Williamson is still bringing the same flair and creativity that he did on opening day.

Williamson’s unique twist on modern Middle-Eastern cuisine is both innately simple and abundantly complex, harnessing traditional flavours with technique and finesse to create a dining experience unlike anything else in the state, or even the country.

Take restaurant favourite the bekaa wings. These seemingly uncomplicated, tongue-tingling hot chicken wings are coated in a sauce made from harissa emulsified with house-smoked butter and kishk yoghurt to deliver a fiery snack that’s peppy with sherry vinegar.

Or how about the achingly tender suckling pig with cellophane-like crisp skin on a zingy fermented pumpkin puree and with a salsa-style blend of juicy golden raisins, barberries and macadamias.

The desserts deliver creativity and flavour in equal measure, such as the buttery pear ice cream with a caramelised paste of roasted white chocolate, puff pastry crumbs and chip-like wafers of dried pear. With a setting that’s as equally approachable as the menu, and unpretentious, yet highly knowledgeable, staff who can guide diners through the diverse menu and extremely sharp wine list, Gerard’s is befitting of everything from the casual weekday lunch to the special-occasion dinner.

 Must-eat dish: bekaa wings