Gosh, it’s good. Being seated in the dining room with postcard vine vistas and the light pouring in, deciding on a something-for-everyone estate wine, and then the main act – Matt Stone and Jo Barrett’s brilliant food.  

That this dynamic duo are so committed to sustainable and zero-waste cooking – making things such as flour from scratch and drawing on the Yarra Valley’s bounty of produce so deftly – makes a visit even sweeter.

Barrett’s caraway pastry is a thing of swirly beauty, teamed with a salad of smoked trout, caviar, herbs and sour cream that’s as pleasing on the plate as the palate. Ditto the dehydrated persimmon discs hatting the Berkshire pork to lend sweet-tart counter to the just-cooked meat.

Desserts celebrate the sweet-savoury divide, with fried parsnip ‘noodles’ and pear pieces doing wonderful things with a luscious hokey-pokey ice cream.

Team this with service that’s sharp and informed but with country charm, and you’ve got one of the best winery restaurants going.

Must-eat dish: Smoked trout, caviar, cultured cream, caraway croissant