Greasy Zoes, a humble 15-seater out at Hurstbridge on Melbourne’s northern gumtree-d fringe, punches way above its weight.

Zoe Birch is in the kitchen, Lachlan Gardner works the floor, and they run this “produce driven” restaurant their way. Which means no à la carte and no printed menu.

Instead, Greasy Zoes delivers a succession of dishes full of spark and invention. Seriously good snacks to begin with (a Brussels sprout tartlet, a pumpkin puff), then some eclectic starters (blue cod, parsnip and smoked mackerel jerky), a marvellous main (woodfired scotch pork with quinces) and two sensational sweets.

Sourcing her mostly organic ingredients from local providores, Birch is inclined to change the line-up every week. So that house-made croissant you enjoyed with citrus marmalade and buffalo cheese might not be there next time you call in.

Gardner’s finely crafted drinks list – almost everything is available by the glass – is the one constant. That and the genuine hospitality that animates this very Australian dining room with its rough-hewn timber, red bricks and artisan oddments.

Greasy Zoes runs on real passion. Seek it out.

Must-eat dish: Blue cod, parsnip and smoked mackerel jerky