The choppers are still out front, waiting to ferry high roller customers back to their city digs, but everyone else reaches Ezard at Levantine Hill by car. Make sure you have a designated driver. Winemaker Paul Bridgeman produces exceptional chardonnays and pinots in this dramatic corner of the Yarra Valley and a meal in Levantine’s Signature Restaurant is incomplete without them.

You have two set menu options – five ($135) or eight ($195) courses (plus matched wines) – and the domes and plinths that defined last years’ degustation have been replaced by stylish ceramics more suited to Teage Ezard’s increasingly Japanese-style fare. The day we dine there’s finely shaved kingfish with buttons of green edamame, burnt onion dashi with salt-baked kipfler potatoes and miso enoki mushrooms with duck breast. What’s missing is a sense of generosity. No snacks to begin, no second slices of delicious wholemeal bread, and no treats to go with our (lukewarm) coffee.

At these prices, and they’re right up there in the valley, we’d also like to see a return to the sharp, well-informed service we encountered previously. Levantine has much going for it, not least its incredible wines, but the whole package needs revitalising.

Must eat dish: Kingfish, yuzu, edamame, pickled kohlrabi