It might lack the sharp architectural fit out of other Mornington Peninsula winery restaurants — though the deck for summer is a mighty fine new addition — but the views across the vines to the Red Hill bush are as arresting as any other, framed here by the humble timber dining room. But lack of show is no lack of ambition — whether Lindsay McCall’s stunning pinots in the bottle, or Julian Hill’s forward-thinking vision on the plate.

An opening act of local oil, whipped anchovy butter and excellent bread rolls hot from the oven sets the stage for a procession of plates of understated elegance. A spanner crab risotto, topped with onion flowers and sauced with a sticky fish caramel, is as original as it is generous, while tender pink wallaby loin teamed with a quandong-spiked leg ragu is an on-trend celebration of Australia pleasing to locals and tourists alike. Venison with good gamy tang sauced with a coffee juniper jus and finished with shaved chestnuts and a hit of tamarillo is so inspired it’s easy to overlook daggy dining moments that include plastic-sheathed menus and the dated montage on the wall. Much better to drink in that view and something from the cellar collection instead.

Must eat dish: spanner crab risotto