The third in a trio of venues owned and run by chef Andrew Cibej — all of which seem to have cornered the market for the dimly lit enoteca — Berta is perhaps the more formal of the three, alongside Vini and 121BC in Surry Hills.

Tucked behind a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it entry way, the restaurant offers a sleek well-rounded menu which, quite literally changes daily depending on produce seasonality and availability.

One thing the food does have in common is that it is delicious, Italian-based fare that embraces whole animal or nose-to-tail dining with dishes designed to share.

There may be chicken liver pate with Seville marmalade, tagliatelle with prosciutto and spicy pork salami (nduja) or a robust wagyu striploin with horseradish and chimichurri.

Must eat: Any pasta dish