Wedged in an unassuming strip of shops on the Gold Coast Highway, The North Room is a 28-seat, tightly run ship helmed by husband and wife, chef Tim and host Shannon Stewart. Diners can choose between a $59 five-course shared tasting menu or a la carte offering that has the most expensive dish priced at $27.

The affable and knowledgeable Shannon is on hand to help with decision making and matches from the adventurous largely Australian boutique winery-driven list, almost all available by the glass.

A starter could be spanner crab with bone marrow crumpet, cultured cream and salted egg yolk before say, succulent pork jowl, topped with a leaf of fermented cabbage. A favourite that regulars won’t allow off the menu for good reason is deboned chicken wings with soured yoghurt, smoked yolk, sprouts seeds and grains.

Finish with a cheese course – maybe Comte gruyere in a toasted brioche sandwich, or a stunning strawberry dessert enlivened with shattered beetroot meringue.

Must-eat dish: Chicken wings